The Basque country (Euskal Herria in the Basque language) - today occupying the western foothills of the Pyrénées - is a land apart, stubbornly independent and profoundly different from either of the nation-states which have adopted it. The administrative capital of the French Basque country, Bayonne, is the best springboard to see the region, with a fine mix of French and Basque, and vital transport links. The balance tips toward Basque just down the coast at St-Jean de Luz. But to take the pulse of this region, head for inland towns such as Sare, Aïnhoa or Bidarray, or up the valley of the River Nive into the western Pyrénées.

The Béarnais, like the Basques, have historical links south of the border, and their traditions have been shaped by the mountains. They certainly have a distrust of outside authority equal to the Basques, and the men wear berets at their festivals as comfortably as the Basques do (indeed most 'Basque' berets are made in the Béarn!). Béarn's biggest attractions for tourists are the mountains and the activities available in them: trekking above all, plus river sports, skiing, cycling, horse riding and fishing.